One interesting unwritten tradition that intrigues us is the botanas, or appetizers, that arrive when you order drinks in certain bars or cantinas. Our trusty tour guide showed us the way at Eladio’s in Progreso last year, and Paul and I wanted to try it out for ourselves when we returned to the beach last month. William Lawson was so masterful, knowing just what to order while prying the best botanas from the kitchen. Left to my own devices, I probably would have bypassed this obvious (to me, anyway) tourist trap, but once inside, Mr. L revealed that it was a terrific place to hang out.
The food is humble fare, but it still seems fairly generous to hand out kibis, ceviche or chorizo, but there it is, at least in the experience of other bloggers. Could this be true? No secret code? Not just on even-numbered days between 2-4 p.m.? It can’t be this simple.
So after hopping a northbound bus on Calle 64 (it came right away) and heading to Progreso, Paul and I found Flamingos, where we heard the shrimp was good. And what we heard about the shrimp was true, but that came later. First, we ordered our drinks and held off ordering platters, and I wasn’t sure if ordering an entree meant no botanas. (I’m still not sure.) I found myself looking toward the kitchen; it didn’t look busy. Waiters were milling about. And I’m not known for my patient nature. After 10 or 15 minutes, nada. No ugly American am I. I didn’t want to ask the waiter “so do we get botanas or what?” … not much I didn’t. Another 10 minutes. “Let’s just order,” I implored to Paul. “No, let’s wait,” Paul advised. Paul’s the patient one.
From our table in Flamingos we see the merengue vendors in Progreso swarm.
We were seated by the window overlooking the malecón and the beach. It was a little early, and not a cruise-ship day, so the promenade was pleasantly serene. Mostly we saw vendors. Some walking right up to the window to sell toys, souvenirs or even merengues. (Wouldn’t that undercut the restaurant, which has its own dessert menu? Despite a sign prohibiting vendors, waiters seem to be surprisingly tolerant. One guy selling masks and woven tote bags even walked in and up to my table when he caught me taking a photo of him.)
Then, some matronly ladies on the malecón let it be known they were in the market for the merengues. And the merengue hawkers came in from out of the woodwork. Everyone seemed giddy. It’s nice when a system works out for everybody.
Botanas at last at Flamingos in Progreso
And then, we scored a small victory for ourselves. The delicious botanas arrived. Without Mr. Lawson to tell me, aside from the tortilla chips, I wasn’t quite sure what I was eating. One dip tasted like a mild sikil-pak, or pumpkin seed-based dip; the other likely a dish of thin refried beans. There was a nice ceviche de pulpo and refreshing slices of something like jicama. Maybe it was … jicama. Anyway, it was free and it hit the spot. Why ask questions.
Come to think of it, the drinks weren’t all that cheap. Not expensive by U.S. standards, but priced to subsidize those free botanas. (No-extra-charge botanas is more accurate.) Cantinas in the Centro offer botanas, too, but I haven’t ventured into any of them yet. Paul’s one cantina experience was to pop into one to use the bathroom. It was an emergency. He was followed out by an angry proprietor, with her hand out, who wanted modest recompense — the equivalent of 5 or 10 cents. In retrospect, we should have obliged to her very reasonable request, but we were so stunned by the confrontation — and we were very green, this being our first trip to Mérida — we walked on, chastened. Long story short, we haven’t returned to sample the landlubber botanas. Eladio’s sister restaurant, Lucero de Alba, on 47 y 56, is where I’d go.
So back to the beach: We did eventually order lunch at Flamingos. The coconut shrimp and shrimp diavolo that followed were the best shrimp I’ve had since I was at a reception at the Four Seasons in 1999 or so. Soooo fresh. I really should toss that bag of frozen Stop & Shop shrimp I’ve been keeping. I’m spoiled for fresh, perfectly cooked Progreso shrimp.
Lee, the Yucatecan chicken at Flamingos is my favourite dish in Progreso. You should give it a try. We’re coming back down March 6th. Will you be there? Would be nice to get together with you.
Alas, we won’t be there until spring. Order chicken at the beach??? I would never have thought of that, but now I’ll have to. I hope we do get to see you sometime this year! I love your blog!
We’re there until April 9th. Does that fit your plans? I know…beach and chicken are kind of incongruous, aren’t they? I don’t really care for fish, but chicken? I can’t say I’ve ever met a chicken I didn’t like. I’m glad you enjoy my blog. I really enjoy writing it!
I’m sorry we’ll miss each other! And hey, if I can eat fish in the Centro, I suppose I can have Yucatecan chicken at the beach, right?
Right!
Hi Lee I have found some places like Eladio’s can be a little slow and cheap with the botanas especally if they serve food off a menu.. they really want you to buy that. I have also found that the botanas at Lucero de Alba are quite poor I don’t like many of them but it is a pretty fancy place and they do have a band from time to time. This last week though we were walking home from the plastico King on 43 and it was a hot hot day. We stoped by a non descript bar on 49 and 52 thinking we would just go it have a beer and carry on home. Well the beer was 17p and the botanas kept coming my husband ended up having 5 beer and me 4 we had so many snacks that we didn’t need dinner! Good for us! Today it was a super hot day so we went to the beach, we did stop in at “sharks” for a drink and yep the botanas were flying there too. We go to “el Toro” for fish, seafood and beers when we go to Progresso it is a little off the beaten path but well worth it.
Is your house on 54??? We walked by one being worked on and like all gringo’s peeked inside, the workers invited us in and showed us around. The arches looked a little familiar and I was just wondering if it was yours.
You found our house alright! Did you take pix? I’m always looking for the latest photos.
So it’s true that ordering too quickly can kill the botanas. I thought as much.
Back in 2007, I did the botanas bar thing for the first time.
and of course blogged about it Anyway, it’s great fun, my only beef is with the noise level. We can go to Las Ruinas on your next trip to Merida, if you want.
regards,
Theresa
ps I hope my link insertion worked, I can’t figure out how to preview it.
The link worked just fine, and I’d like to take you up on that offer! I’ll bet things cost more now, especially since the Times has declared us a fashion model destination.
Hi Lee- botanas are my favorite part of the food experience here in the Yucatan. One of my favorite “botana joints” is quite near your new house in Merida- Lucera del Alba on 47th at 56th. Order a beer and get 5 or 6 little tapas plates, order another beer and 5 or 6 different delicious selections come out of the kitchen.
We also like The Shark for luch in Progreso- free botanas then try their fish or shromp ajillo- simple but amazing!
Villa Verde Merida
The Shark was right next door to Flamingo’s (which I swear is not the name of a gay bar on the malecon) and I was wondering about it. They had the palapas right on the beach, but no customers. We’ll have to try it next time.