When people in Mérida tell me they’re headed to Playa, they don’t just mean la playa (the beach). They’re saying it with a capital P, and it’s short for Playa del Carmen. We’re just a half an hour from Progreso and its Gulf coastline, but lots of people drive four hours in the other direction and hit the Caribbean side.
When Paul and I come to Yucatán, we’re Centro-focused. We don’t take a lot of excursions. Many of our guesthouse companions had seen more of the surrounding haciendas, ruins and beaches in a few days than we have in two and-a-half years and seven trips. We did, however, take a city bus for a very quick-and-easy ride to Progreso to see the malecón.
And although the beach and its walkway were pretty, and we had probably the best shrimp ever at Flamingos, we were underwhelmed by the city as a whole. (One person advised: Go there, see it, and turn around and we practically did.) On Trip 6, we took a great William Lawson tour of Progreso and points east, and even then the only time we were really drawn in was when we stopped at Telchac Puerto. Not quite “unspoiled,” the towns’ sleepy qualities are both an advantage and disadvantage. There were some attractive villas being built, but they seemed deserted and unappreciated. No signs indicating surfing, scuba diving or much else — such is the nature of a Gulf shoreline whose limestone shelf requires a four-mile pier for ships to dock. Few restaurants, little sign of nightlife, which are things that Playa apparently excels in.
Progreso’s beach is nice, but it’s not the Caribbean.
So the main attraction is fresh shrimp and the breeze … which is probably enough to get us back there one day. We are, after all, homebodies who like shrimp. What more could we ask for?
We’ve been to the Caribbean (and Paul’s family heritage is Caribbean) but other than a quick ride from the Cancun airport to the city’s bus terminal, we haven’t seen much of that part of the Peninsula. It looked pretty from the sky, I can tell you! I haven’t seen much debate online between Gulf and Caribbean loyalists. Maybe one can start here.
We lived on the gulf coast of Florida for a number of years, and I can say that the white sand beaches are very nice. The emerald water is pretty during certain times of the year when it is really clear and you can see your toes and the little minnows that are curious. Then it can turn cloudy and full of seaweed and smell awful.
Here is my criteria for a beach: If there are more than 5 or 6 people within a mile or so, it’s too crowded.
I could never go to one of those resorts on the Riviera Maya. Sharing a pool with dozens or hundreds of strangers is not my cup of tea, nor is sunning on a crowded beach. And I can say that we have never been on a cruise ship. I’m hoping that one day I can trick Marc into revealing the location of his secret, uninhabited beach. I have a notion there are still a few places like that in the Yucatan, at least for a few more years. That is just fine for these two homebodies!
I see what you mean. On the Yucatan side of the gulf, though, I hear about shards of glass and litter; roaming packs of dogs (I’ve seen this only once) and isolation. I appreciate the quiet, but could I deal with that for more than a three-day weekend? I’ll have to try and find out!
Having rented several high end and some humble homes in Playa del Carmen and traveled the length and breadth of Quintana Roo, I still prefer the vibe of Yucatan. The Caribbean is like a male model…pretty to look at, but boring after awhile.
While Progeso may not have lots of night life, it’s proximity to Merida makes it a nice day trip. Hit it on a day when there are no cruise ships and it’s nice and lazy.
Personally, I’m in love with Chuburna Puerto which has NO nightlife!
I have soooo much to learn about all the coasts. I have almost always lived near water. I grew up at the Jersey Shore, and lived year ’round in Ocean City for a while. Merida will be the most land-locked I’ve been for most of my life.
The thing I love about Merida is that you feel the sense of community. Playa, Cancun, Akumal…most Caribbean towns make me feel as if there are no roots and everything and everyone is transient. The only places on the east coast that truly touched my heart were Sian Kaan, Muyil and Punta Laguna…and Isla Mujeres circa 1984
I get a taste of that community whenever I go on Yolisto. Oy.
Yes the Caribbean is so pretty…but I get restless on a beach and I hate to fry my skin… so 3- 4 hours is enough beach time. Do I really want to travel 4 hours eachway for this? Nah…if I get the need for some beach time, the Gulf coast is where I’ll go. Someone told me that Sisal is the nicest beach.
Funny you mention Sisal. After seeing some photos, I’ve been dying to take an excursion there, and now I hear some big tourist effort is in the works.
No contest! The blue water of the Caribbean beats the green of the Gulf (at least in Yucatan), hands down. But life is more than a beach. Socrates preferred city life to country life because he said he didn’t learn much from rocks and trees. While I’m a country boy myself, deriving much delight from nature, Merida seems to be swaying me to believe he may be right. Community of our own kind is a generous tutor. (However, I’m not at all inclined to withdraw from our place in nature.)
~eric.