I’m not getting smarter about Mérida. In fact, the more I learn, the more I find how little I know about this mysterious old city. It’s like when I went to France that time, confident that my time learning vocabulary words and pronunciation would serve me well, and then my language skills got worse by the day. I couldn’t even pronounce “Le Métro” by the end of that trip.
In truth, the more I learned, the more I realized how little I knew. After a couple weeks in France, I could no longer fool myself about my proficiency with the language.
I still don’t know…
… How is the Centro real estate market doing really? Houses are selling, but for how much? How do you find out a home’s selling price history? One of our real estate agents told us that haggling isn’t traditional in the Centro. I can’t believe that’s true.
… Mérida has been promoted almost routinely on House Hunters, Rick Bayless’ show, and all over print media — particularly the New York Times. So where’s the New York-Mérida direct flight. I’ll keep dreaming.
… How does that visa process work again? I’ve read about it over and over, but the rules seem to be changing already. Early on, I inferred that I could pay someone to handle the whole thing for me, but all that buys is a consultant to guide me.
… How is Mérida for older travelers. I don’t mean just 50-plus. My parents are octogenarians who pretty much just drive to church on Sundays. Mom hasn’t flown since she took me to Disney World in 1974, and Dad hasn’t been on a plane since he came home from World War II. They just got their passports, so I know they’re serious about coming. Plus, they don’t drink, so I can’t calm their nerves through my normal technique — passing out cocktails.
… Will I still be interested in cooking? Should I be? In big cities, sometimes it’s cheaper to get takeout. I’m building a nice kitchen for myself, but there’s just two of us, and those panuchos a couple blocks away sure look good. (This is related to another question I have about how living here will affect my weight.)
… Will anyone visit? If they do, will they ever leave? People often anticipate guests who never come, but by the time Casa Nana is finished, most of my friends will have passed 45 and be in full midlife crisis mode. Twenty years ago, when we first bought our house, with a big green lawn out back, our friends considered their good fortune. Typical comment: The backyard will be perfect for my wedding! Wait until they find out their old friends with the big backyard now have a vacation hideaway, where their exes can’t find them.
… Will I ever be fluent? My Spanish vocabulary is much improved, but some simple words still elude me. Why isn’t diecicuatro an acceptable variation of catorce? Because that would be great if that could happen.
Hello, everyone. My partner, Steve, and I are operating a B&B in Merida, so we have been through a few of the things you are asking about. But as someone has already written, things change, so take everything I say with a grain of salt.
We purchased our property in March. We searched and searched for just the right property. When we finally found it, the price had just been lowered. Others were in line for the house at the new price, so we paid the full asking price (the lowered price). We did bid on a couple of other properties, but they would not come down on the prices that we felt were too high. We feel Merida is definitely on the upswing, and prices are going to be rising over the next several years. Mexicans from all over the country want to move to Merida, as well as all the expats, due to the safety and rising economic conditions.
We have FM3s because we have a Mexican corporation. But there are now (as of Jan. 1, I believe), new visas, new rules, and new methods for applying. And the immigration office staff is still working it all out, so I cannot be of much help, there. But I have heard that, just like many other countries, you are to get your Passport stamped with a temporary visa before coming to Mexico, then you have so many days to apply for your permanent visa. Just go to your nearest Mexican consulate and get that ball rolling.
Finally, yes, the Spanish will come once you are forced into speaking it daily. It still seems like a slow process, but after 8 months I can communicate at least enough to get what I want, if not hold an intelligent conversation. But that will come, too, I hope.
The B&B looks incredible. I can’t wait to see it in person! I have all the respect in the world for the expats like you who came here and set up a business.
I never tire of your questions because they are good questions… but the answer to all of them is “Wait and see…” As has been pointed out by several other commenters, too much detailed planning does little good. Things work out the way they work out… and usually that’s the best way. Here’s my prediction: You will do exceptionally well because you have the right attitude. You’ll make many friends and be wildly successful with “Hamaca Press”… and your parents WILL come here. They will love seeing the wonder that Merida brings out in you and they’ll be caught up in it too.
From your lips to God’s ears!
I’ve answered a couple of your querstions (that’s not misspelled, it’s an inside joke) before with pseudonyms, simple because we are private people who might want to share a few things with family and very close friends, but don’t want the whole world to know our business. Anyway……
Haggling over house prices is done EVERYWHERE, including Centro. I swear, some “real estate” people simply want to save themselves the work of making a deal. Yes, there are sellers who have a firm price, but that doesn’t mean price negotiation has vanished. ho ho ho!
It is typical that many Americans are afraid to visit. They think all of Mexico is a 24 x 7 OK Corral shoot-out. Americans, sadly, could be a lot more worldly, but that might interrupt their “#1″ fantasies. (seen the intro to The Newsroom?)
Once you must speak Spanish, your skills will likely increase rapidly. As long as you have an English out, at least I have found, the mind is lazy. Anyway……
Don’t worry about how *anything* works until the moment you need to know. Things constantly change, especially government regulations. “Planning ahead” is more an American trait. Many Mexicans actually have superstitions against planning ahead, because to plan may jinx the event. Really.
I really love that last point. I fly down on Saturday, but if it were up to me, I’d be packed and sitting at the airport now. Some day I’ll learn to chill out a bit.
Sooo… I still don’t know how to find a final selling price. Would the government have that on file, and it is available to the public?
Lee, Sara said one time that she had spent her whole life learning how to live and get things done, only to have to re-learn everything after moving to Merida. It’s mostly all been fun tho. I’m in the States now but headed home on Saturday also. If I see you, the beer is on me.
You’re on! Hope to see you soon, Ty! Say hello to Sara for us!
If it helps any:
For the visa process, I called one of the expat-helper services and supplied the (minimal) paperwork and photos they requested. I had the photos done at Walmart. The expat helpers submitted stuff to Immigration and set the final appointment for me. I showed up at their office on that day, they took me to Immigration in their car, we had a short wait, and then I supplied my thumbprint, if I remember right, and walked out with my visa. It was painless.
I do less cooking here, partly because it’s hot and partly because there’s so much home delivery. If you choose carefully, the home delivered stuff can be just as healthy as what you might cook. Yesterday I had a tasty chicken breast, steamed veggies, and mashed potatoes delivered to my house. However, it wasn’t cheaper than cooking — it was $11 US and provided just enough for a meal plus a snack.
I lost 12 pounds in my first 1.5 years here without trying. I’ve lost a bit more since then but have to actually try.
None, zip, ningún of my US friends have visited in the two years I’ve been here. The two who seemed to consider it seriously backed out saying that they were afraid, regardless of my reassurances. However, my guest room has been useful for hosting couch surfers and new friends from elsewhere in the Americas. A couple of them have stayed for months and come back for repeat visits. If you want to increase your Spanish quickly, get a sociable housemate who speaks only Spanish!
I’m glad to hear the expat helpers actually help! Seems like so many people go it alone. I’d pay for a little help, as I’ve been doing in all other aspects of moving down here. I’m hoping that by virtue of the fact that I’m in a walkable city, I’ll keep the weight off. Suburban American life really is bad for you, and I can’t wait to change the scenery for good! Thank you for all your insights, as usual!
We are here now, and we have commented already about how much greater our comfort level is now. We have done more in 3 days than in a week last year!! Just relax and speak spanish….a lot…..and the Yucatecos will gladly help you!! Warm and welcoming is their way!!!
Lots of good questions that none of us (who aren’t already there) will know the answer to right away. It’s true that most of us fall in love with Merida after our first few days of visiting and many who come to live end up not staying very long. I hope that won’t be our case, or yours. As for the weight issue, I’m thinking that with all the walking, swimming every day, and sweating profusely we’ll be able to minimize the carb attack.
And fresh fruits and veggie, cheap and in season! That should help.
I think it’s great that your parents have gotten their passports! That seems to speak volumes about their accepting your decision to purchase in Merida. I recall a post of yours when you were wondering how to break the news to your mother.
Can’t wait to return next week! Una cerveza fría noche del viernes para mí!
We just have to pray their health holds out! I’ll see you next week, or the week after, I hope!
We just arrived home last night, late. We left Merida at 6 am and arrived at our house in St Louis at midnight. What a long travel day… and a really good day for introspective thoughts. When you go to Merida for a week or two you are in a hurry to experience all you can as your time is so limited, but when you are there for 35 days like we were, you have much more time to enjoy the simple things like cooking, watching the birds, or just sitting on the patio and watching the clouds. I found myself getting up at dawn, watching the sun and the neighborhood awake from my secret perch on the roof. We hoofed it to stores down by the main mercado and walked strange areas looking for a place to have keys made… and finally found it right across from Santiago! And we made friends for the first time!
THAT’s what I’m looking forward to. I’ve never had more than two weeks off. Even France was just 12 days, and I only got that because I was between jobs. I’d love to hear more about your stay, PQ …. please tell your readers more when you can!
I am waiting for the comments because my inquiring mind also wants to know!
A few commenters who used to answer my questions in detail have disappeared. I think they got tired of my incessant queries. They always used pseudonyms, so I may never know their identity.