Entering the macho world of Fernandez

The macho world of Fernandez on Calle 70 is awesome!

The macho world of Fernandez on Calle 70 is awesome!

Home Depot is for losers. The cool people go to Fernandez, a place so cool I wish I knew how to screw in a lightbulb. If I were a competent homeowner, and could drive a nail without injury, I’d be here all the time. This is the narrative that kept repeating in my head as we waited for our number to be called at this no-nonsense home improvement store on Calle 70, somewhere between Santiago and San Sebastian.

So how did I end up being a fish out of water?

When you’ve still got a lot to learn about living in Mérida, sometimes [Read more…]

Repairing a broken heart at the vivero

Vivero Xochimilco

Vivero Xochimilco

Brace yourselves, readers. Some bad news about the flor de mayo in our center courtyard. After two years of struggle, it’s kicked the bucket. We haven’t removed it yet, but it’s a goner. Its hollow branches weren’t even strong enough to hold LED lights at Christmas. The ground cover demanded lots of water, and the tree drowned in it, according to one theory. Whatever happened, the courtyard wasn’t a happy place for our flor.

This was heartbreaking, because we really loved it, and we had gotten used to seeing how [Read more…]

A quick and slow trip to the hospital

CMA's urgent-care center on Calle 54 in Mérida was just the thing for Paul.

CMA’s urgent-care center on Calle 54 in Mérida was just the thing for Paul.

Paul was certain he would get chikungunya this trip, because if there’s a new disease, virus or syndrome to be had, Paul insists on having it. Plus, he’s a mosquito magnet. I’m pretty sure he’ll get it too, hell or high water.

[Read more…]

Coming for cocktails, finding Jesus

Costco's version of Rosca de Reyes reminded us of South Park.

Costco’s version of Rosca de Reyes reminded us of South Park.

Some people show up for cocktail hour with a bottle of wine. Others like to show off their cultural sensitivity, and if cocktails are announced on Three Kings Day somewhere in Mexico, these people might show up with a giant honking ring cake from Costco. A Kirkland brand Rosca De Reyes, that is, topped with colorful, jellied fruit. The one with a tiny plastic toy, representing baby Jesus, somewhere inside. [Read more…]

Finding refuge in a traditional Yucatecan meal

Santa Lucia last night at 8.

Santa Lucia last night at 8.

It was only five years ago that Parque Santa Lucia was a quiet little corner of the Centro Histórico. Its boarded-up L-shaped colonnade had no businesses, but there was, as there is now, live music and dancing on Thursdays, and arts and crafts on Sundays. But mainly, it was a little pocket park for lovers to hold hands.

[Read more…]

All is forgiven on Trip 14

All is forgiven, JFK Airport, and all the people who cut in line, successful and otherwise.

All is forgiven, JFK Airport, and all the people who cut in line, successful and otherwise.

I’m a very forgiving person, especially at this time of the year. Here’s who and what I’m forgiving at this moment: [Read more…]